Climbing with Andy again. Left at about 9am, and was climbing for about 10:30ish. The weather forecast was abysmal for the club’s coach meet to the Nantlle ridge area, so we opted for The Roaches.
First climb was Maud’s Garden, a nice VD with a climb up the slab to a pronounced ledge, followed by a chimney move near the top, and then a move back out onto the face to climb for a further metre or so.
The second climb was Aqua, a VS 4c which Andy has led previously, and on this occasion we decided to top rope. This commences with a climb up the corner of the slab up to an overhang above. The key to the overhang is to layback to the left, with the right hand in a very good hold. This should permit the right leg to move up onto a good foot hold, and the left hand above the right hand. The climb up the slab is relatively straight forward thereafter.
Our final climb of the day was Rooster, a D that was to become my first lead. The first half of the climb is a smear up the slab to a large ledge. As this was very green, I opted to use the adjacent gully up to this point, as it was not possible to place any protection, and we were already a good 10m above the floor before commencing climbing. From the ledge the climb heads up the large crack to the left side of the face.
Immediately placing a wire in the roof of the overhanging section, I then levered myself up to the final problem. There is a very large crack, which ultimately I used for an arm jam. The main difficulty is that the wall bulges outwards, and the foot placements here are not great. Committing to the move, I was soon on top and bringing Andy up to an audience.
Can’t climb outdoors for a couple of weeks now – so back to Wolf Mountain
Unitl the next time